Cole of California: Pioneering Swimwear and the Artistry of Margit Felligi
Cole of California, born Vernon, United States of America in 1917, stands as an emblem of American innovation within the realm of casual fashion—specifically, swimwear. Established in 1917 by F.L. and Joseph Drane as West Coast Knitting Mills, the brand’s origins lie in a humble endeavor: crafting men's long knitted underwear and socks. This initial focus on textile craftsmanship would prove to be remarkably prescient, foreshadowing a transformative shift in design sensibilities that would define the company’s future trajectory.
Early Years & Innovation (1917-1925): The Dranes Recognized Demand
The Dranes recognized the burgeoning demand for comfortable fabrics and established West Coast Knitting Mills with a singular vision—to produce high-quality knitted garments using advanced techniques. Their commitment to meticulous craftsmanship quickly garnered recognition within the textile industry. This dedication to precision would become a cornerstone of Cole’s artistic ethos, informing every subsequent design decision. The company's early success solidified its position as a leader in innovative textile production.
Morris Cohn’s Influence & Expansion (1925-1936): Bringing Theater to Fashion
Morris Cohn joined the Dranes' enterprise, injecting capital and expertise into the burgeoning business. Crucially, his son Fred Cole brought a theatrical background—a career as a silent movie actor—to the table, adding an unexpected dimension to the company’s operational ethos. This blend of practicality and artistic vision proved invaluable in shaping Cole of California’s creative direction. Cohn's influence ensured that the brand remained adaptable and responsive to evolving trends within the fashion landscape.
The Birth of Hollywood Swimwear (1925): Capturing Glamour & Sophistication
Recognizing the allure of glamour and sophistication, Cole championed the creation of women's swimwear. The introduction of the ‘Hollywood swimsuit,’ featuring a low back and neckline alongside a short skirt in 1925, instantly captivated audiences and cemented Cole’s reputation as a visionary designer. This daring design—a bold departure from prevailing styles—became synonymous with the Jazz Age aesthetic and established Cole of California as an innovator in shaping popular fashion trends.
Margit Felligi: Shaping Aesthetic Direction (1936-Present): A Legacy of Texture & Boldness
In 1936, Cole enlisted Margit Felligi as head of design—a decision that would irrevocably alter the course of Cole of California's artistic heritage. Felligi’s profound understanding of textile artistry and her unwavering dedication to exploring new forms of expression resulted in groundbreaking designs like “The Swoon Suit” and “Scandal Suit,” establishing Cole of California as a leader in shaping the aesthetic landscape of the era. Her meticulous attention to detail—particularly her masterful use of textures and bold geometric patterns—influenced countless designers and cemented Felligi’s place as one of America's most celebrated textile artists. She championed techniques like incorporating Lastex fabric, nylon and spandex into swimwear designs, pushing the boundaries of comfort and style.
Cole of California Today: Tradition Meets Contemporary Vision
From its humble beginnings as West Coast Knitting Mills, Cole of California has evolved into a globally recognized swimwear brand—a testament to visionary leadership and unwavering commitment to artistic excellence. The brand’s enduring success stems from its ability to blend tradition with innovation—drawing inspiration from techniques like Cowichan knitting while embracing contemporary design sensibilities. Cole of California continues to uphold the values established by Felligi and Joseph Drane, ensuring that the legacy of American swimwear artistry persists for generations to come.
