Cole of California: Iconic Swimwear from 1925! Pioneers of the Hollywood swimsuit & innovative designs by Margit Felligi
Cole of California, born Vernon, United States of America in 1917, stands as an emblem of American innovation within the realm of casual fashion—specifically, swimwear. Established in 1917 by F.L. and Joseph Drane as West Coast Knitting Mills, the brand’s origins lie in a humble endeavor: crafting men's long knitted underwear and socks. This initial focus on textile craftsmanship would prove to be remarkably prescient, foreshadowing a transformative shift in design sensibilities that would define the company’s future trajectory.
Early Years & Innovation (1917-1925): The Dranes Recognized Demand
The Dranes recognized the burgeoning demand for comfortable fabrics and established West Coast Knitting Mills with a singular vision—to produce high-quality knitted garments using advanced techniques. Their commitment to meticulous craftsmanship quickly garnered recognition within the textile industry. Morris Cohn’s influence swiftly bolstered the enterprise, injecting capital and expertise into the expanding business. Crucially, his son Fred Cole brought a theatrical background—a career as a silent movie actor—adding an unexpected dimension to the company’s operational ethos. This blend of practicality and artistic flair would become a hallmark of Cole of California's identity.
The Birth of Hollywood Swimwear (1925): Glamour Takes Shape
Recognizing the allure of glamour and sophistication, Cole championed the creation of women's swimwear. The introduction of the ‘Hollywood swimsuit,’ featuring a low back and neckline alongside a short skirt in 1925, instantly captivated audiences and cemented Cole’s reputation as a visionary designer. This daring silhouette—a deliberate departure from prevailing modesty standards—became synonymous with the Jazz Age spirit and embodied the aspirations for freedom and self-expression prevalent during that era. The design reflected the influence of theatrical artistry, mirroring Cole's own experience as an actor.
Margit Felligi: Shaping Aesthetic Direction (1936-Present): A Legacy of Innovation
In 1936, Cole enlisted Margit Felligi as head of design—a decision that would irrevocably alter the course of Cole of California's artistic heritage. Felligi’s profound understanding of textile artistry and her unwavering dedication to exploring new forms of expression resulted in groundbreaking designs like “The Swoon Suit” and “Scandal Suit,” establishing Cole of California as a leader in shaping the aesthetic landscape of the era. Her meticulous attention to detail—particularly her pioneering use of Lastex fabric, nylon and spandex—transformed swimwear production techniques and elevated Cole’s creations beyond mere functionality. Felligi's designs continued to inspire creativity for decades, solidifying Cole of California's position as a cornerstone of vintage fashion history.
Cole of California Today: Tradition Meets Contemporary Style
From its humble beginnings as West Coast Knitting Mills, Cole of California has evolved into a globally recognized swimwear brand—a testament to visionary leadership and unwavering commitment to artistic excellence. The brand’s enduring success stems from its ability to blend tradition with innovation—drawing inspiration from techniques like Cowichan knitting while embracing contemporary design sensibilities. Cole of California continues to uphold the values established by Felligi and Joseph Drane, ensuring that the legacy of American swimwear artistry persists for generations to come. Its commitment to craftsmanship remains steadfast, honoring the pioneering spirit of its founders and celebrating the enduring beauty of timeless designs.
